How To Grow And Care For Hyacinths

Hyacinth Care

The time window when hyacinths need care is fairly small. From late winter to spring during the growing and blooming periods, hyacinths need regular watering. After the bloom, the foliage disintegrates; the plants vanish until the next spring. Other than fertilizing the bulbs after the bloom and again in the fall, there is nothing to do during the rest of the year.

The planting depth and spacing depend on your climate and the type of hyacinth. According to The Southern Living Garden Book, gardeners should “set larger Dutch hyacinth bulbs 6 inches deep, 5 inches apart. Set smaller ones and Roman hyacinth bulbs 4 inches deep, 4-5 inches apart.” In cooler climates, the bulbs are planted a little deeper, about 6 to 7 inches deep.

Light

Grow hyacinths in full to partial sun. Hyacinths need at least six to eight hours of daily sunlight, but providing these flowers with afternoon shade in areas with prolonged sun exposure is beneficial. As an early-blooming spring bulb, these plants will likely not compete for sun exposure from overhanging deciduous trees.

Soil

While not particular about soil pH, hyacinths best tolerate slightly acidic to neutral soils. Soil should be loose, moderately fertile, and well-draining. Hyacinths will not tolerate wet or very nutrient-rich soil, which causes the bulbs to rot and the stalks to be floppy.

Water

Keep a consistently moist but well-draining soil. Do not overwater the ground or container to avoid rot and diseases. Relying on rainfall is best, but if not possible, provide plants with about 1/2 inch of water weekly. Water when the top few inches of soil feel dry.

Temperature And Humidity

To bloom, hyacinths need temperatures between 40°F and 45°F for at least three months during the winter. In climates where temperatures are too warm, the only way to grow hyacinths is to keep them in a dark and cold storage space at the required temperature for at least six to 10 weeks before replanting. If you cannot provide these conditions in your home, purchase pre-chilled bulbs that are ready for planting in the spring.

Hyacinths prefer moderate relative humidity (between 40% and 60%); they don’t do well in humid climates.

Fertilizer

To fertilize established hyacinths, add a bulb-specific, slow-release, granular fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10 to the soil twice: in the spring after the blooms fade, and again in the fall.

Types Of Hyacinths

Hyacinths are available in various colors—some better suited for warmer Southern climates. Here are some selections to consider:

• ‘Blue Jacket’: This variety features big flower columns in a royal blue color with white edges. 
• ‘City of Haarlem’: This heirloom variety features soft petals in primrose yellow that mature to a creamy white. 
• ‘Pink Pearl’: This variety features a cotton-candy-colored, rose-pink flower.

Pruning

Snip off any faded flower spikes. This will ensure the plant doesn’t use its energy to produce seeds.

However, keep the leaves intact after the plant finishes blooming. This lets the plant store energy for next year’s bloom. After the leaves have turned yellow and died back, trim the plants back to just above the bulb and roots. Remove any dead or diseased foliage near the bulb’s base.

Propagating Hyacinths

Over time, healthy hyacinth bulbs produce more bulbs called bulblets. The best method for propagating hyacinths is dividing offset bulbs from the main bulb. Propagating hyacinths from seed is not recommended because the seeds are often sterile. Even if the seeds produce a plant, it takes several years for it to bloom and it won’t be true to the parent because many hyacinths are cultivars. Here is how to propagate hyacinths through bulb division: 

1. In the fall, select a mature hyacinth plant to propagate. Carefully dig around the plant to remove it from the soil. Bulblets might extend beyond the parent bulb. (Use protective gear to avoid skin contact with the bulbs.)
2. Gently remove excess soil and locate the main or parent bulb.
3. Separate bulblets from the parent bulb using your hands. 
4. After separating the bulbs, replant them in well-draining soil. Keep the soil moist and water in the absence of rain.
5. Depending on the size of the bulblets, hyacinths will flower the following spring for larger bulbs or two years after planting for smaller bulbs.

Potting And Repotting Hyacinths

Lovely when planted close together in groups, hyacinths make excellent container plants, but there’s a catch. Unless you protect the containers during the winter (see Overwintering), the bulbs are subject to freeze-and-thaw cycles, which affect the bloom and may even kill the bulbs. Alternatively, treat hyacinths as potted annuals.

Hyacinth bulbs require good drainage and grow best in a porous potting mix. Cover the soil surface with a layer of mulch. Keep the pots in the shade first and after the bulbs take root, move them to a location with plenty of sunlight. Water regularly, as potted plants dry out faster than garden soil.

Forcing Hyacinths

For an earlier bloom, you can force hyacinth bulbs in a vase. Place the pre-chilled bulbs (pointed side up and root end down) in a forcing vase and let the water come up to the bottom of the bulb. Then, place the bulbs in a cool, dark place (40°F to 48°) until the roots develop and the first leaves appear.

Change the water regularly and keep the water level consistent. When the leaves appear, move the vase to a bright spot, like a windowsill, where they receive full sunlight and warmer temperatures. The forced hyacinths will flower in six to eight weeks. However, the bulbs will likely not rebloom.

Overwintering

Depending on your climate, hyacinth bulbs may require some winter care. Adding a thick layer of mulch (bark chips, straw, or evergreen boughs) over the soil surface in colder climates protects the bulbs.

If you are growing hyacinths in containers, bury the containers in the ground to insulate the bulbs or move the containers to an area where they are protected from excessive moisture and freezing weather. The bulbs will rot if hyacinth plants experience too much moisture.

However, do not overwinter hyacinths in the warmth of your home; they need cold exposure to bloom the following year. In zones warmer than zone 8, dig up the bulbs and store them in a cool, dry, and dark location (40°F to 45°F for at least 10 weeks) until it’s time to plant in the spring.

Common Pests & Plant Diseases

While relatively low-maintenance plants, hyacinths are still susceptible to pests and diseases. Manual removal usually works for caterpillars, slugs, and snails if it’s done while their numbers are still small. Another pest you might find on hyacinths is aphids. Spraying the foliage with a garden hose is often sufficient to remove them; if they persist or the infestation is severe, lightly spray them with insecticidal soap.

Hyacinth bulbs are susceptible to rot, often occurring from oversaturating the soil. Poor air circulation or moist, humid environments lead to the spread of fungal diseases such as the soil-borne Botrytis blight. Treat infected plants with fungicides and maintain healthy foliage to prevent the disease from spreading. 

How To Get Hyacinths To Bloom

To ensure your hyacinths bloom, remove spent flowers but not the foliage until it dies back on its own. Fertilize the bulbs up to twice a year after the bloom and in the fall.

If your winters are too warm, hyacinths may not bloom. In that case, plant pre-chilled bulbs and treat them as annuals. If pre-chilling the bulbs in your fridge, keep them away from fruit, as fruit gives off ethylene gasses that will cause the bulbs to die.

Common Problems With Hyacinths

While easy to grow and care for, hyacinth plants still have some common problems, including:

Drooping Leaves

Hyacinths suffer when overexposed to warm temperatures. It causes leaves to droop and leads to rapid but weak stem growth. As a result, the plants become top-heavy and fall over. When growing hyacinths, especially indoors, keep the temperatures moderately cool.

Fewer Blooms

Hyacinth bulbs should be divided every two to three years to avoid overcrowding, which is commonly the cause of poor bloom.